Milano
The Duomo, Europe’s biggest Cathedral
I’m gonna admit it, my head’s really not in the game right now… As of the writing of this post, I leave for Toronto in four days, I’ve been checking apartment listings daily, and I just started checking my work email again. I was acclaimed as Branch President for my school’s teachers union, and my social schedule upon my return is happily starting to fill up.
Even today, my first full day in London in 5 years, I’ve spent more time doing stuff that is home-related (I went to four different stores looking for a set of tumblers that you can’t get in Canada) than touristy stuff, but in my defence, it’s raining out and I had laundry to do this afternoon.
As such, it occurs to me that, while i had a lovely time in Milan, I took very few pictures. I also didn’t, in retrospect, do a whole lot, even though I was there for 3 full days.
I blame the Pope.
As you can see in the photo above, Pope Benedict XVI was in Milan for World Family Day or something like that. More anti-gay, anti-women’s right’s, anti-contraception bullshit, I’m sure, but because of it, the city wa crawling with people.
Still, even with all the stuff, I did get out and about exploring, and what I did see was quite wonderful.
Stazione Centrale
Inside Stazione Centrale
I took the train from Genoa to Milan, and it was a lovely train ride. Getting into Milan was a treat, though, as you arrive in this stunning building. What I really enjoyed about it was how well-used it was. There are multiple levels, and there is space for food, for retail, as well as waiting areas. It’s very pretty. It’s also the main hub for transport, as trams, busses and the metro all converge here.
The hostel (guest house?) I stayed at was fairly close to Centrale, which was nice. I set off right away upon arrival to find out what there was to do in Milan, but I found the tourism office at Centrale to be disappointing – I felt like I was bothering the woman, and when I tried to ask for information, she tore off a map, put an x where we were, an x where the Doumo is, and shoved the map at me. I’m sure she was getting the same question over and over that day, but come on, try a little bit.
The Duomo
The Duomo is, apparently, the largest cathedral in Europe, and it is quite a beautiful building. The Duomo sits on a square, and it was usually full of people, especially seeing as the Pope was in town.
Once I entered into the cathedral, its immensity was stunning.
Inside the main nave of the Duomo
Being that it was also the World Meeting of (presumably Catholic) Families was in Milan at the same time, the square surrounding the Duomo, as well as the Duomo itself, was overrun with people most of the time I was there. I ended up going on my second-last day, and the crowd was lessened, so i was able to get around and see things, even though it was still very crowded.
Castelo Sforzesco
In the centre of the city is the Castello, a 14th century ducal palace that now houses 7 museums and galleries that are open to the public. The castle is quite large, and the various exhibition spaces are spread out in the various buildings on the grounds of the castle.
I visited first the Museum of Ancient Art, which was quite beautiful, and houses Michaelangelo’s Pietas, which is a beautiful rendition.
Michaelangelo’s Pietas
The art in the gallery was beautiful, and contained many wonderful artifacts.
The next section I visited was the Antique Furnishings and Arts, and then the Applied Arts and Musical instruments. Being able to see how much design has changed over the years, and yet how much has remained the same, was quite fascinating. There were many beautiful pieces, andit was cool to see them all assembled in one place.
There was also the Archaeological Museum, with both an Egyptian and Roman exhibits. Not overly impressive, but a nice little collection.
The great thing about visiting the Castelo is that you can buy a 3-day Combo ticket that gives admission to the Castelo, Museum of Natural History, Museo del Risorgimento and Archaeological Museum. And it’s only €7 for all of them.
Sadly, I a) lost the original ticket, and b) only made it to two of the four museums. I blame laziness. I did make it to the Archaeological Museum, which was quite cool as it outlined the history of Milan, from its founding as the Roman city of Mediolanum to modern times, as well as good exhibitions about the Roman and Etruscan civilizations.
The Museum itself is housed in an old convent on the site of ruins, and there is a tower left over from the 3rd century that contains frescoes from the middle ages. It was a cool site, and a nice afternoon out.
Okay, honesty time: the only reason I knew La Scala existed prior to arriving in Milan was because of the line in the song “It’s bad luck to say Good Luck on Opening Night” from The Producers:
At the famous La Scala in Milan
On opening night it’s a rule
“In bocca lupa” they say with elan
And just for luck they all shout…
“Bah fongool!”
So when I saw it for the first time, that was my connection.
La Scala is one of the most famous Opera houses in the world, and its history goes back to 1778. It has been home to some of opera’s greats, such as Verdi, Toscanini and Maria Callas – names even an operatic neanderthal like me knows.
You’re not able to tour the theatre, unfortunately, but you can visit the Museum, and if you’re a theatre nerd (like me), it’s actually quite fascinating. there is a variety of photos, programs, props and costumes on display, the most impressive of which was Verdi’s piano. There were also etchings and photographs fromCommedia dell’Arte, which is the original version of slapstick comedy.
Before you enter the museum, you are able to go into the theatre galleries, and take a look at the theatre from one of the booths. The Auditorium is quite beautiful, but not necessarily out of the ordinary. If you can imagine all of the great performances that have take place there, however, it does become a special place.
While I was looking at the theatre, I overheard a guide in the next booth say that there were €10 rush seats in the fourth balcony available every night there is a show. The process for getting one is a bit of a production – you need to go to La Scala, to the side entrance, at noon to sign up for the tickets, and you can only get one ticket per person. Then, at 4:30, you need to go back to the same place, where you are given a voucher (once you’ve produced ID proving you are who you say you are) which will allow you to buy the tickets.
The reason the tickets are so cheap is a) they’re in the 4th balcony and b) they’re INCREDIBLY obstructed views. The auditorium of La Scala is round, all the orchestra seats face forward, but the side seats, of course, face the audience opposite. But hey, for €10, it’s La Scala.
The show we got to see was Peter Grimes by Benjamin Britten. It was written in 1945.
It sucked. Badly.
It didn’t help that I had to stand for most of the 1st act to see what was going on. But the music was kinda awful, the lyrics didn’t rhyme (sorry, that’s my bias, but lyrics in music should rhyme), and while it was well-sung and designed, I just didn’t care. I left after the first act. But, I can say I saw an opera at La Scala.
Getting Here, Getting Around
I took TrenItalia to get to Milan from Genoa, and it was a reasonable trip. It’s only 90 minutes or so between the two cities, but the view is beautiful. The ticket, I seem to recall, was pretty reasonably priced.
There is a Metro system in Milan, which I used sparingly. There are also busses and streetcars, and the system is fully integrated. They have a 24-hour pass for only 4€50, which I thought was kinda awesome.
Accommodation
I again used Hostelworld to book my accommodations in Milan, and ended up at the Central Station Hostel. It was… okay. I think I’d call it more of a guest house, maybe? It was behind the Central Station, fairly well situated on bus and streetcar routes, a bit of a hike (10 minutes?) from Centrale and 15 from other metro stops. I dunno. It was a bit odd… it’s on the main floor of an office building, and it’s right beside the tracks. It was okay…
Final Thoughts
I enjoyed Milan, much more than I did Genoa, but as I have been finding, it’s not the city but the people in it who make the difference.
I was very lucky that, my first night in Milan at the local Gay bar, I was recued by Gigi, a really nice (and cute) DJ who invited me out with him and his friends. We went clubbing, and afterwards, his friend, Peter, was very gracious in taking me out and showing me around. It was pretty fantastic.
Special Thanks
Obviously to Gigi for rescuing me at the bar, and to Peter who went waaaay over and above to show me around, even though he was working. Grazie, bellos
Rocky on the Road 